Just make sure your knots are tied correctly

MikeF gave you some great advice. The tough thing is finding one in-line board that works for all applications. I picked up a couple Church TX-6 Mini boards to use out in NH (spring) this year. They probably can't run more than 2-3 colors of leadcore, but they'll pull back when you get a shaker on. They are about a 1/3rd of the size of the Church "Walleye" boards that can pull a full core.

http://www.churchtackle.com/tx6.html#TX_6_Mini_Planer_Board

Offshore just released a new mini board that apparently can run up to 5 colors of lead. A nice compromise inline board.

http://www.offshoretackle.com/OR34.html

When you get into summer months and you need 6 colors or more, you'll need to go with a bigger in-line board. Both companies, as well as others, make boards that will work in this situation. I like the Walleye boards by Church, because of the pull pin, but a lot of guys swear by their Offshore boards. Say they pull better, etc. Just a preference thing.

Mike gave you great advice in having your boards setup not to release. I've tried it the other way (using speed beads) and prefer taking them off at the boat.

I was looking at those walleyeboards.Give me a call Joe if your ever allowed to fish the spring derby.

Another brand that has been used for year are the Yellow Birds. They work great and have different sizes also. You could also use a cheap rod with your planer line and have a release clip off the back of your board just line the otter and other brands. That way when you get a fish you are not fighting the board.

I run the OR12 (L and R) and was pulling 5 and 7 cores with this this past fall. They did OK but definitely do better with less cores.

As to setting up a lead core rig: I use an Okuma classic levelwind that I bought a KPT for $40 two years ago. I bought two identical rigs and loaded up the first rig backwards (leader and mainline first, followed by my leadcore then filled the spool with backing...leaving enough room so I could replace my 2 core with up to 7 cores). I then tied the end of the backing to the reel I was going to use it on and reeled it all on. After the backing was loaded, I took a quick measurement of how much spool was left so I could guesstimate how much backing to put on my first reel when I was ready to load that. OR you could just have AJ sell you the whole pre-rigged get up.

My only regret with doing it myself is my rod for the lead core is a little stiff. Maybe all leadcore rigs are the same but I don't get much fun fighting the fish until I am down to my last core.

PS: I learned almost all of this from the seminar the guides from this site run each year at F and G HQ in Concord (man did they pack the place!). I think they give similar lectures at The Gathering.

Thanks again for the help all.I'm wondering if I could make that rod mast idea work.Ive got some drawing and thinking to do.

Mike, for years we used(what we dubbed)the poor mans planer mast set up.It consisted of 2 straight flush mount pole holders and 2 cheap stiff cod poles.It was mounted all the way up front on a bowrider and it worked as good as anything else we have had.polebreaker

Yes.Its all coming together now.Do You guys think its worth it to make my own double planers or just buy new.Anybody want to get rid of any old ones?I'll post a wanted.

MikeC ...sounds like we've convinced your to go with double planers. Probably a good idea if you are getting serious about trolling. "Big John" Sampson always seems to have gear for sale but I haven't seen him put up any planer equipment this season. I would recommend Craigs List and eBay as starting points. Before buying though, consider how you are going to mount it as this will probably be as expensive as the equipment.

Mike youve been very helpfull.Still spinning wheels.We'll see where we end up.

I bought a couple of green cheap inline planers last year off of ebay so I could salmon hunt right after iceout that worked great(18 bucks for the pair with shipping). I rigged as follows. Lure plus 3 feet of 6 lb mono, barrel swivel, inline planer mini ball stop ( or whatever you call it. This just keeps the planer from sliding all the way back to the lure when a fish strikes), and 10 lb mono mainline. I would let out about 40 feet of line, hook up the sideplaner and then let out enough line to get the planer away from the boat about 30 feet. Lure is right on the surface but we did well with this setup last year right after iceout. Waves give it more action too. Only bad part is when a fish hooks up and the planer releases, you're fighting the fish and the released planer board that is 3 feet from the fish. This is a great cheap setup if you're looking to ride high and wide.

Matt
aka
Smokin Turtle

PS Make sure you put a stop on! I forgot like a dumba-- last year and a salmon got smacked off when the planer came sliding back 100mph after release!

There were some yellowbirds on the vt craigslist a few weeks back. http://burlington.craigslist.org/boa/1055304211.html
Here is an inexpensive option, see photo. Planer boards and steel conduit poles came with this boat, I got some 1/4" orange line at Aubuchon hardware. Worked fine, got me to the fish last couple of years. I'm getting a planer mast this year, I'm hooked.
There are designs on line for homemade planer boards (I think the links have been posted here before.)

Dave C.